From seafood on Good Friday to chocolate indulgence on Sunday morning, food brings thousands of Australians together at Easter in homes, backyards and parks all over the country. We celebrate this holiday in different ways and it can hold very different meanings for us all. Whether it's a time for religious observance, a time to take a holiday or simply a time to spend with family, Easter is all about gathering, eating and celebrating with those we love.
This week Teresa Oates and Angela Villella, authors of Mangia! Mangia! Gatherings tell us how they celebrated Easter this year and share their traditions that have been carried on in their families for generations. In typical Italian style there’s never a dull moment and the food, as always, is sensational.
Tradition provides the magical ingredient in a Mangia! Mangia! Easter feast. With the madness of Christmas over, we all take a well-deserved collective pause, then, with an even summer tan, it’s back to the demanding work routine. And just as the body yearns another dose of rest, reflection and recreation, with perfect timing, along comes Easter. And herein lies the wisdom of tradition.
It all starts four weeks prior to Easter, on Ash Wednesday. As kids, we recall our mums and grandmothers stocking up on baccala (dried and salted cod, a symbol of commitment to sacrifice) in preparation for this significant holy day. Every Friday during Lent, we eat this modest fish – either fried, braised or simply boiled, then drizzled with oil and seasoned with salt, chopped garlic and parsley. Although we loved baccala, we did miss juicy cotolette (schnitzel) or prosciutto- and provolone-filled panini for our school lunches. But we knew rewards awaited us, so we obediently endured the deprivation and suffering.
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Agnolotti with Spinach and Ricotta Filling from Mangia! Mangia! Gatherings - Photo by Simon Griffiths
Of course, Easter eggs are an obvious reward, but there is more – a whole lot more. On Easter Sunday we wake to the certainty of a feast. First, there is the ritual of a slice or two of colomba, a traditional Italian Easter cake. This is a sweet bread formed into the shape of a dove. Not as fancy as the Christmas panettone, but elegant in its simplicity and lightness, and perfect with that first cup of espresso and an entree to what awaits.
After church, it’s home to set the table in preparation for the much anticipated celebration of new life. First course is always a pasta dish. Traditionally, it would be homemade ravioli served with an outstanding bolognese sauce that has been lovingly simmering away for hours. The pasta is light and respectful of the meat’s subtle flavours and texture. More recently, cannelloni with ricotta and spinach has become a family favourite for Easter – which appeases the vegetarians that have crept into the fold.
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Fritto Misto from Mangia! Mangia! Gatherings - Photo by Simon Griffiths
After the pasta comes the fish and meat – or rather, the meats. A hearty life-affirming fritto misto (fried seafood) always makes a grand display: the norm is two or three platters overflowing with calamari, garfish and – the grandparents’ favourite – silver whiting. Lemons, of course, are picked from the tree in the back garden, and all is good.
Easter wouldn't be Easter without the roast agnello (lamb). It must be milk-fed, for this guarantees a tender and mouthwatering experience. When the meat and fish platters are on the table, one can’t help but feel transported to another time. The dishes of today are the same as the dishes of years gone by. And with this, we are connected to a celebration that has endured any one individual. So on Easter Sunday, through our food shared with family and loved ones gathered around the table, we are living tradition, and it tastes great!
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