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Articles on this Page
- 03/12/14--16:27: _The 10 principles o...
- 03/26/14--18:25: _Phillippa's Home Ba...
- 03/26/14--18:29: _French for Everyone
- 03/26/14--18:32: _Sweet
- 03/26/14--18:35: _I Am Food
- 03/26/14--18:39: _Delicious Days in P...
- 03/26/14--18:55: _Mangia! Mangia! Gat...
- 03/30/14--16:53: _Corrections – Phill...
- 04/09/14--21:23: _Hot Cross Buns for ...
- 04/23/14--17:04: _A Mangia! Mangia! C...
- 04/23/14--21:42: _Anzac Biscuits
- 05/01/14--00:27: _Molten Chocolate Pu...
- 05/06/14--21:22: _Lantern dinner
- 05/15/14--19:55: _One Perfect Day In ...
- 06/04/14--18:40: _Matt Moran SSS Cook...
- 06/04/14--18:47: _Alison Thompson Cak...
- 06/04/14--18:51: _Christine Manfield ...
- 06/04/14--19:11: _General SSS Classes
- 06/04/14--22:26: _Justin North SSS
- 06/04/14--22:41: _Rodney Dunn at Acco...
- 03/12/14--16:27: The 10 principles of a Mangia! Mangia! gathering
Keep the celebrations at home.
Given our busy lives, the temptation to outsource family celebrations is strong. But opening your home to family and friends is a powerful expression of generosity and effort that oozes heart and soul
All are invited – young and old and everyone in between.
We will never forget the offence taken by our parents when they received a wedding invitation stating ‘no children’. ‘Va contra natura!’ (it goes against nature!), they exclaimed. And, in their wisdom, they were right.
The sentiment ‘I can’t be bothered’ is not translatable into Calabrian dialect.
Okay, maybe this is an exaggeration, but we have never heard our mums use this expression when planning a gathering, and this alone speaks volumes.
Invest in large platters, trestle tables and fold-up chairs.
Isn’t it funny how we’re just like our parents? We’ve learnt that this equipment is essential – it’s important to be in a state of constant preparedness for a large gathering.
No plastic plates, cutlery or glasses.
Each gathering, big or small, leaves an enduring memory. Using disposable plates symbolises compromise – not only is it an act of disrespect to the food, but it diminishes the occasion.
No curfews – the party’s energy should be free to flow.
Even at a wedding reception, when the venue might close by 11.30 p.m., the spirit of conviviality continues at the family’s home until the wee hours of the morning.
The bustina (cash-filled envelope) is the preferred gift at weddings.
The bustina, which must be white, is a practical financial contribution to the couple’s future. This foolproof gesture – who doesn’t welcome cash? – makes the perfect gift. However, it is important to apply the ‘bustina formula’ – that is, to ensure you cover the cost of the dinner per person, plus 30 per cent.
A memory stick is no substitute for a photo album.
The rich emotional experience of poring over the pages of a photo album is worthy of preserving. We just have to take the time to print the damn things!
Children’s bedtime does not mean guests have to leave.
As hosts, we make every bed in the house available for the children to sleep in. At wedding receptions, two chairs joined together form a makeshift bed. The spirit and energy of the celebration is sacred, and as children we learnt this important life lesson.
Strictly no BYO.
When inviting family and friends to your home, it is understood that the host provides everything – including the alcohol. There should be no line marking where a host’s generosity begins and ends.
- 03/26/14--18:25: Phillippa's Home Baking
- 03/26/14--18:29: French for Everyone
- 03/26/14--18:32: Sweet
- 03/26/14--18:35: I Am Food
- 03/26/14--18:39: Delicious Days in Paris
- 03/26/14--18:55: Mangia! Mangia! Gatherings
- 03/30/14--16:53: Corrections – Phillippa’s Home Baking
- 04/09/14--21:23: Hot Cross Buns for a happy Easter
- Place the flour, sugar, spices and salt in a large bowl and mix with a whisk. Make a well. Add the yeast to the well, then add the milk and butter and mix to form a dough that is becoming elastic and starting to come away from the sides of the bowl. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead to form a smooth dough (see page 218 for more information on kneading). Add the dried fruit and knead until evenly blended. Take care not to over-mix, otherwise the fruit will break up. Return to the bowl. Place the bowl in a clean plastic bag and tie the handles so it is loosely covered. Leave in a warm place for 2 hours for the dough to ferment. It should have roughly increased in size by two-thirds and be quite soft and elastic.
- Line 2 baking trays with baking paper. Divide the dough into 12 pieces that weigh roughly 80 g each. Using the palm of your hand, gently roll the dough around on the bench in little circles to form small buns. Place on the trays, a few centimetres apart, then place the trays in plastic bags and leave to prove in a warm place for 1½ hours or until the buns have roughly doubled in size.
- Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan.
- Just prior to baking, make the flour paste. Blend the flour and milk to form a thin paste, then spoon into a piping bag with a 2 mm round nozzle. Pipe the paste in long lines down and then across the buns to form crosses. Bake on the centre shelf of the oven for 12–15 minutes or until the buns are golden and have risen evenly.
- While the buns are baking, make the glaze. Place the sugar and hot water in a small saucepan and simmer until the sugar has dissolved and the glaze has thickened but is still clear. Allow to cool.
- Remove the trays from the oven. Let the buns cool on the trays for a few minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool. When the buns have cooled completely, brush with the sugar glaze. Serve as they are or toasted with good butter.
- The buns will keep in an airtight container for several days.
- 04/23/14--17:04: A Mangia! Mangia! Celebration
- 04/23/14--21:42: Anzac Biscuits
- Preheat your oven to 160°C. Line a couple of large baking trays with baking paper and set aside. In a large bowl, thoroughly mix together the oats, coconut, flour and sugar.
- Put the butter and golden syrup into a small saucepan over low heat and warm them, stirring occasionally, until the butter has melted. Remove the pan from the heat. Add the boiling water and bicarbonate of soda and stir them in briefly; just be a bit careful as the mixture froths up. Pour this buttery liquid into the oat mixture along with the vanilla extract. Quickly stir the two together until they’re thoroughly combined.
- Roll the resulting sticky dough into walnut-sized balls, then flatten them slightly and sit them at least 5 cm apart (as they spread quite a bit) on the prepared baking trays. Press an almond, if using, into the top of each biscuit; the almonds are really just a bit of window-dressing to make them look a bit different, so you certainly don’t have to use them. Depending on the size of your oven, you may find you need to bake these in batches.
- Bake for 16–20 minutes or until the biscuits are deep golden brown but still soft, then remove them from the oven. (It’s a good idea to rotate the trays from shelf to shelf halfway through the baking time to ensure the biscuits cook evenly.) Leave them to cool on the trays for a few minutes, then carefully transfer them to wire racks to cool completely. They keep well in an airtight container for up to 1 week (I wish – I don’t think they have ever lasted that long in my house!).
- 05/01/14--00:27: Molten Chocolate Puddings with Salted Caramel Custard
- To make the custard, place the milk, cream and vanilla bean and seeds in a medium saucepan and heat until simmering. Remove from the heat and set aside. Place half the sugar in a medium saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar has melted and turned into a very dark caramel – this will give you the best-flavoured custard. When the caramel is ready, remove the pan from the heat and immediately add the hot milk mixture, taking care as it will create a lot of steam and bubble up quickly. Stir to combine, then set aside.
- Combine the egg yolks and remaining sugar in a mixing bowl and whisk for 2 minutes or until pale and creamy. While continuing to whisk, add the hot milk mixture to the egg yolks, then pour the custard back into the saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon or spatula until the mixture reaches 79°C and is slightly thickened. Immediately pour the mixture through a fine sieve and into a clean bowl. Stir in the salt, then chill in the refrigerator or over ice, stirring regularly, until cold. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator until required.
- Preheat the oven to 180°C (fan). Brush the ovenproof dishes with the melted butter and set aside.
- Place the chocolate and extra butter in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water, stirring occasionally until melted and smooth. Alternatively, melt in the microwave, checking and stirring every 20 seconds. Place the eggs, egg yolks and sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and beat on high speed for 10 minutes until pale and creamy. Gently fold in the melted chocolate and butter, then sift in the flour, cocoa powder and baking powder and fold gently until just combined.
- Spoon the batter into the prepared dishes. At this stage the puddings can be baked immediately or covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days. Bake the puddings for 12–14 minutes or until risen and still a little soft in the centre. If you are baking the puddings chilled from the refrigerator they will need another extra minute or two in the oven. Serve immediately, either in the pudding moulds or turned out onto serving plates, accompanied by the salted caramel custard and maybe a dollop of whipped cream or ice-cream.
- 05/06/14--21:22: Lantern dinner
- 05/15/14--19:55: One Perfect Day In Paris
- 06/04/14--18:40: Matt Moran SSS Cooking Class
- 06/04/14--18:47: Alison Thompson Cakeriffic
- 06/04/14--18:51: Christine Manfield SSS Class
- 06/04/14--19:11: General SSS Classes
- 06/04/14--22:26: Justin North SSS
- 06/04/14--22:41: Rodney Dunn at Accoutrement
More Kitchen Tips
Manu Feildel makes cooking french food at home easy in French for Everyone - Photography by Ben Dearnley
Rasberry meringue tarts and Apple tarte tatin from Alison Thompson's Sweet - Photography by Sharyn Cairns
Celebrate in style with Mangia! Mangia! Gatherings by Teresa Oates and Angela Villella - Photography by Simon Griffiths
Please note the following revisions:
Phillippa’s wicked chocolate ice-cream sandwiches, page 66
The texture you are looking for is more of a thick batter than a soft dough.
Lemon almond slice, page 79
The butter should not be added until after the dry ingredients have been mixed with a whisk.
Pumpkin and prune cake, page 128
The quantity of cooked pumpkin should be increased to 250 g, and start checking the cake after 1 hour of baking.
Angela Fleay’s blue ribbon sponge sandwich, page 161
The sponge tins should be 20 cm, not 23 cm.
Rough puff pastry, page 198
After the pastry has rested for 30 minutes, remove it from the refrigerator and place it on a lightly floured surface, with the exposed layers closest to you.
Country loaf, page 237
In this recipe the dough is made in a bowl, but it may also be made on a bench.
Basic levain, page 244
Reduce the quantity of water from 2 tablespoons to 11/2 tablespoons.
Seven-grain sourdough, page 248
With this variation, allow only an extra 10 minutes of baking time due to the increased size of the loaf.
The blend of spices infused into the steam from a freshly baked hot cross bun is the smell of Easter. The Egyptians made small cakes marked with the horns of an ox as an offering to the goddess of the moon, and the Greeks and Romans followed suit. The early Saxons made buns marked with a cross in honour of the goddess of spring, Eostre. This custom was appropriated by the early Christians, hence the name Easter, and in medieval times they began to add spices. To make the buns truly special, use freshly ground spices and the best dried fruit possible. At Phillippa’s we bake them with enough room for each bun to develop into a lovely pert shape with a sweet, chewy crust rather than follow the commercial method of cramming as many as possible onto a tray and baking them into a mass to be torn apart. I usually double the quantities so I can give a dozen to my neighbours.
Hot Cross Buns
500 g baker’s flour
50 g caster sugar
1 heaped tablespoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
½ teaspoon ground allspice
1½ teaspoons table salt
1 teaspoon dried instant yeast
350 ml lukewarm milk
30 g unsalted butter, softened
65 g sultanas
40 g currants
25 g raisins
25 g candied orange peel, finely chopped
good butter, to serve
50 g plain flour
3 tablespoons milk
100 g caster sugar
100 ml hot water
From seafood on Good Friday to chocolate indulgence on Sunday morning, food brings thousands of Australians together at Easter in homes, backyards and parks all over the country. We celebrate this holiday in different ways and it can hold very different meanings for us all. Whether it's a time for religious observance, a time to take a holiday or simply a time to spend with family, Easter is all about gathering, eating and celebrating with those we love.
This week Teresa Oates and Angela Villella, authors of Mangia! Mangia! Gatherings tell us how they celebrated Easter this year and share their traditions that have been carried on in their families for generations. In typical Italian style there’s never a dull moment and the food, as always, is sensational.
Tradition provides the magical ingredient in a Mangia! Mangia! Easter feast. With the madness of Christmas over, we all take a well-deserved collective pause, then, with an even summer tan, it’s back to the demanding work routine. And just as the body yearns another dose of rest, reflection and recreation, with perfect timing, along comes Easter. And herein lies the wisdom of tradition.
It all starts four weeks prior to Easter, on Ash Wednesday. As kids, we recall our mums and grandmothers stocking up on baccala (dried and salted cod, a symbol of commitment to sacrifice) in preparation for this significant holy day. Every Friday during Lent, we eat this modest fish – either fried, braised or simply boiled, then drizzled with oil and seasoned with salt, chopped garlic and parsley. Although we loved baccala, we did miss juicy cotolette (schnitzel) or prosciutto- and provolone-filled panini for our school lunches. But we knew rewards awaited us, so we obediently endured the deprivation and suffering.
Of course, Easter eggs are an obvious reward, but there is more – a whole lot more. On Easter Sunday we wake to the certainty of a feast. First, there is the ritual of a slice or two of colomba, a traditional Italian Easter cake. This is a sweet bread formed into the shape of a dove. Not as fancy as the Christmas panettone, but elegant in its simplicity and lightness, and perfect with that first cup of espresso and an entree to what awaits.
After church, it’s home to set the table in preparation for the much anticipated celebration of new life. First course is always a pasta dish. Traditionally, it would be homemade ravioli served with an outstanding bolognese sauce that has been lovingly simmering away for hours. The pasta is light and respectful of the meat’s subtle flavours and texture. More recently, cannelloni with ricotta and spinach has become a family favourite for Easter – which appeases the vegetarians that have crept into the fold.
After the pasta comes the fish and meat – or rather, the meats. A hearty life-affirming fritto misto (fried seafood) always makes a grand display: the norm is two or three platters overflowing with calamari, garfish and – the grandparents’ favourite – silver whiting. Lemons, of course, are picked from the tree in the back garden, and all is good.
Easter wouldn't be Easter without the roast agnello (lamb). It must be milk-fed, for this guarantees a tender and mouthwatering experience. When the meat and fish platters are on the table, one can’t help but feel transported to another time. The dishes of today are the same as the dishes of years gone by. And with this, we are connected to a celebration that has endured any one individual. So on Easter Sunday, through our food shared with family and loved ones gathered around the table, we are living tradition, and it tastes great!
I’ve always loved Anzac biscuits. How my mum ever kept up with the rate we ate them, I’ll never know. Yet somehow she managed to keep just ahead of our voracious appetites and nimble fingers (that could even whisk them off the baking trays while they were still hot). And even though we burnt our mouths as we ate them, they were worth it and more. I doubt that anyone these days could ever lay claim to the recipe as their own, as there are so many versions and they all tend to use similar ingredients – although some now include fairly exotic additions like wattle seeds and lemon myrtle, while others are studded with chocolate chips. Very good they are too – but for me, it’s hard to beat the chewy, oat-laden, golden-syrupy originals.
This recipe makes biscuits that are quite chewy as I like them that way, but if you’re one of the ‘crisp biscuit’ brigade, just use a bit more flour in the mixture and cook them slightly longer.
Quite a few years ago when I was working in London I had to make 300 serves of this pudding for a star-studded charity dinner. It was the first time I had made such a large quantity of any dessert and I was more than a little apprehensive. Testament to a great recipe though, it worked perfectly and they all came out of the oven with that sought-after molten chocolate centre.
Molten Chocolate Puddings with Salted Caramel Custard
Lantern dinner at Kitchen by Mike.
Last night Lantern marked 10 years of making beautiful books with a spectacular dinner at Kitchen by Mike. The space was transformed with gorgeous arrangements by Saskia Havekes of Grandiflora. The delicious menu created by Mike McEnearney and Christine Manfield was truly a delight. It was a magical evening and a great opportunity to celebrate our wonderful authors, contributors and supporters.
Our publishing director, Julie Gibbs, took the opportunity to say a few words about Lantern in her welcoming speech:
This is a truly special evening. Lantern was launched at the Art Gallery of New South Wales ten years ago, on 4 June 2004. We wanted it to become a recognisable brand for the illustrated books that had been doing well for Penguin, and we stated in the catalogue (which was more of a pamphlet then) that these would be books with personality and style matched with authority and credibility.
Lantern means everything to me. It has become a way of life and its success has brought great joy and fulfilment. My husband says we never go anywhere unless a book might come out of it. None of my friends are immune from a publishing overture and none of the authors are immune from the possibility ofbeginning a new friendship. Any line between work and play has long since been completely blurred – happily so. These are the books I want beside my own bed, on my coffee table, desk and kitchen bench so I can dream of your designs, gardens, beautiful clothes, interiors, travels and food. They are books of inspiration, dreams, instruction and delight. And most importantly they are books of excellence and quality.
Tonight very many of our authors are here. To state the obvious, without you there are no books. I really want to thank you from the bottom of my heart for your loyalty, dedication and incredible talent. To our photographers: we can’t do it without you either. Thank you for your generosity of spirit, time and commitment.
There are many booksellers in the room; you are the heroes in our industry. Thank you for your faith in the Lantern brand.
My Lantern colleagues are the best in the business. Thank you for your enthusiasm and devotion every single day and for the greatest support.
And huge appreciation to our friends in the media for generously sharing what we do with your audience and supporting the important place of the book in people’s lives.
The imprint has grown and thrived in the most wonderful way, and this year we publish the biggest Lantern list to date. Here’s to the next ten years.
Romantic, mouth-watering Paris – with so many wonderful things to do and see – where do you start? The dilemma becomes even greater if your time is limited! Below, I share five delicious ideas if you have just 24 precious hours in my favourite city.
By Jane Paech
Promenade through the Tuileries Gardens
For an elegant introduction to the City of Light and to soak up the full splendour of Paris there’s nothing like a stroll through the gold-plated first arrondissement. The neighbourhood is classic Paris, dominated by the Louvre Palace, a patchwork of elegant squares and breathtaking gardens. Start at the Cour Carrée at the eastern end of the Louvre, with its grand splashing fountain. As you walk towards Pei’s glass pyramid and on through the archway of the Place du Carrousel, a fabulous panorama slowly comes into view. You step into the beautiful Tuileries Gardens and suddenly it seems all of Paris is before you: a thrilling, unbroken vista of grand monuments and thoroughfares. At this moment you know you are in Paris. When you come down to earth, head to the tea salon Ladurée or Pierre Hermé’s flagship pâtisserie on Rue Cambon. You can’t visit Paris without sampling a great macaron!
Visit a Market & have a Picnic
For the food-lover, a jaunt to one of the city’s open-air produce markets is a quintessential Parisian experience. It’s a delightful way to sample a bounty of the fresh, regional produce packed in the city’s hamper, and also throws light on the rhythm of everyday Parisian life. An all-time favourite is the atmospheric Marché Président Wilson in the 16e arrondissement(open Wed & Sat mornings), renowned for its breathtaking flowers, artistic displays of pristine produce and great location near the Eiffel Tower. Grab a crusty baguette, a thick slice of chunky terrine and some perfectly ripe farmhouse cheese to enjoy with a rustic fruit tart and some sweet-scented strawberries. Spread out a picnic lunch on the banks of the Seine and watch the barges pass, or relax on the grass under the shadow of the Eiffel Tower.
Meander along Rue du Bac.
One of my favourite streets in Paris is the charming Rue du Bac in the 7e arrondissement.Take a ramble along the village-like street that starts at the river and winds right through to the fabulous Left Bank department store, Le Bon Marché. Along the way you will find florists overflowing with old-world roses, artisan ice creameries, chocolate shops and pâtisseries as well as a pretty bunch of home décor boutiques. Don’t miss Chapon, a tiny, old-word chocolate store, and La Pâtisserie des Rêves, the pastry shop of dreams. Here, you will moan over the lemon meringue pies, mille-feuilles and innovative éclairs slid into sleeping bags of chocolate. If you need a reviving pause and afternoon tea, the celebrated tea salon, Angelina, has just opened a new boutique on the street.
Pop into the Musée de Cluny
There are dozens of intriguing small museums sprinkled throughout Paris and these appetising little gems offer a warmth and intimacy impossible to find in vast galleries. Their manageable size means they can be enjoyed in the space of an hour or so, creating a delightful refuge in a hectic day of sightseeing and eating. I adore the Musée de Cluny and return each time I visit Paris. Deep in the Latin Quarter, it’s full of intriguing bygone treasures, a medieval attic offering valuable insight into the art and life of the Middle Ages. The flamboyant ogee arches, turrets and dragon gargoyles make it hard to believe there’s not a princess locked up in the five-sided tower at the top of the spiral staircase.
Dine at Joséphine ‘Chez Dumonet’
For a classic bistro experience, book a table at Joséphine ‘Chez Dumonet’ (117, Rue du Cherche-Midi, 6e). The narrow vintage dining room with cracked-tile floor, zinc bar and white-linen-draped tables makes you feel as though you have walked into la vieille France. What you will find here is excellent, old-fashioned bistro cooking, a rarity in Paris nowadays, with many dishes available in half-portions. Book from 8.30 pm to dine with the locals in the evening, and finish with the Grand Marnier soufflé.
Sydney Seafood School cooking class with Matt Moran
Whether he's whipping up simple, stylish dishes for family and friends at home or creating more complex fare at his fine dining ARIA restaurants in Sydney and Brisbane, Matt's focus is always on the best seasonal produce prepared with a light touch and distinctive flair. Join one of Australia's leading chefs at this hands-on dinner class.
Contact Sydney Seafood School
P 02 9004 1111
Alison Thompson appearance and book signing at Cakeriffic expo
Cakeriffic is Victoria's premier exhibition showcasing techniques, experts and stunning examples of the artistry and craftsmanship of cake decorating. It's lots of fun and there's sure to be something for everyone.
P 0409013 106
Sydney Seafood School cooking class with Christine Manfield
Chef, cookbook author and gourmet tour leader, Chris is an excellent teacher and inspiring cook, blending a diversity of flavours, textures and cooking methods to create original, modern food. Master some of her recipes and techniques at this hands-on lunch workshop.
Contact Sydney Seafood School
P 02 9004 1111
A variety of classes at Sydney Seafood School over the month of June
Join some of Australia's leading chefs and seafood masters over the moth of June to expand your seafood skills. The focus of the classes vary from specific cuisines to Winter Warmers or Fast and Fabulous. Have a look at their programme and you're sure to find the class for you!
Contact Sydney Seafood School
P 02 9004 1111
Justin North Sydney Seafood School cooking class at The Centennial Hotel
Justin combines classical training, experience with some of the world's top chefs, and a passion for excellent produce to create inspired contemporary food. At this hands-on dinner class, he'll teach you to reproduce delicious seafood dishes with French flair.
Contact Sydney Seafood School
P 02 9004 1111
Cooking class with Rodney Dunn from The Agrarian Kitchen
Rodney left Gourmet Traveller and Sydney for Tasmania and has created a new life using home grown produce from the garden. His book has been an outstanding success come and see why. Other times and dates also available.
Contact Accoutrement Cooking School
P 02 9969 1031